More than a new way of farming, biodynamics is a new way of thinking – the jury is out on its efficacy, but it does produce some delicious wines, writes JOHN WILSON
IN THE EARLY 1990s I attended a lecture by Michel Chapoutier, who was in the process of converting his vineyards to biodynamic viticulture and passionate about the difference it made. I still have the notes, and I still can make neither head nor tail of them.
A few years later, I was travelling around Burgundy with a Parisian wine merchant who had an appointment with Ann-Claude Leflaive of Domaine Leflaive, one of the great names of white Burgundy. She offered us two samples of her Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru Clavoillon. They tasted markedly different and she told us that one was made from biodynamic grapes, the other from conventionally grown. At a recent tasting and dinner in Ballymaloe House, I was sitting beside the same Leflaive, who has now converted entirely to biodynamic viticulture. Leflaive and Chapoutier are not alone; biodynamics is the current buzzword in wine, with producers the world over converting.
Biodynamics was invented by Rudolf Steiner (who didn’t drink alcohol) in 1924 as a series of lectures linking science and nature. Unlike organic agriculture (which followed), it argues that a farmer needs to see his land as self-sustaining, in tune with nature and its cosmic and lunar rhythms.
I have always had my suspicions about biodynamic wines. It’s not that I don’t like them; some are excellent, others terrible. But when producers (normally a very scientific group) talk so enthusiastically about burying cow manure in a cow horn, to be sprayed on vines the following year, I wonder what effect it could have.
Yet farmers throughout the centuries have done tasks according to lunar phases, a practice still dismissed by scientists. Good compost, a key component, makes a difference (I am a compost freak), and any method of farming that eschews chemical fertilisers and fungicides is not only cheaper, but better for the environment. But most of the above is standard organic practice.
Biodynamics certainly forces the grower to think more deeply about soil quality and to come up with alternatives methods of farming. Nigel Greening of Felton Road, one of the top producers of Pinot Noir in New Zealand, apparently leaves rabbit carcasses around the vineyard to attract birds of prey, who deter other birds from eating his ripe grapes. I have talked to many vine growers who are convinced biodynamic viticulture is the future.
Although Steiner may be the founding father, many disagree with some of his ideas, and practise a looser form. Most scientists dismiss it all as pseudo-science or “homeopathy for the soil”. They argue that studies proving the superiority of biodynamics over other farming methods are limited in scope or merely prove that organic farming (all biodynamic is organic) leads to improved soil quality, biodiversity and crop fertility.
Biodynamic viticulture may prove a few things: if you take great care of your vineyard soil, increasing microbial activity and biodiversity; if you farm organically, without recourse to pesticides and artificial growth promoters; if you keep your yields naturally low, you have a greater chance of producing high quality and more interesting wine. But then, a great producer will always take good care of his vineyards and biodynamics could be seen as a (fairly) logical step after organics to producing great grapes. However, a mediocre producer will always be just that, and using biodynamics as a fig leaf will not change that.
Those interested in buying Leflaive wines should contact importer Paddy Moore on 01-4967617.
BOTTLES OF THE WEEK
All of this week’s wines are biodynamic.
Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico, Sicily 2008, 13%, €23A completely beguiling wine made from two local grapes, Frappato and Nera d'Avola. The Cerasuolo has wonderful piquant strawberry and liquorice fruits, a refreshing acidity, underpinned by a lightly herbal note, and a tannin-free finish.
Stockists: On the Grapevine, Dalkey, Liston’s Camden Street; Cabot Co; Market 57, Westport; Wine Room, Limerick
Guy Bossard Muscadet de Sèvre Maine 2009, 12%, €14.20Lovely, fresh, plump apple fruits and a long, dry finish. A delightful summer wine to knock back by itself or with a plateau of fruits de mer.
Stockists: Lilac Wines, Fairview, Dublin 3; Connemara Hamper, Clifden; Morton’s, Salthill Galway; Fields SuperValu, Skibbereen; Mannings Emporium, Ballylickey
Ch de Bastet Côtes du Rhône 2009, 13%, €12.95This took an hour or two to show its paces. Fairly big with plenty of burly, dark savoury fruits, and some firm tannins on the finish. It would go perfectly with more robust dishes such as beef or lamb, but decant an hour before serving.
Stockists: Cases Wine Warehouse, Galway; Connemara Hamper, Clifden; Quay Co-Op, Cork
Domaine de Fondrèche Natural 2009, vin de pays de Vaucluse, 13%, €18.99
Not only biodynamic, but made without added sulphur. A deep, youthful colour, with very attractive pure ripe dark fruits, with good refreshing acidity, nice concentration, and very good length. A very well-made wine (and great value too) which would improve with decanting.
Stockists: 64 Wine, Glasthule; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; thewinestore.ie
Sancerre 2010, Domaine Vacheron, 12.5%, €26.95Sometimes you forget how good Sancerre can be; this is a delicious, elegant wine. The nose has beautifully poised ripe pear fruits, with a subtle leafiness. On the palate, very fine refined ripe pear and yellow fruits, with a lovely bone-dry citrus finish and real length.
Stockists: SuperValu, Mount Merrion; Centra, Adare; SuperValu, Kanturk; Terroirs, Dublin; Redmonds, Ranelagh; Nolans, Clontarf; Bin No 9, Clonskeagh; the Wine Centre, Kilkenny; Thomas Deli, Foxrock; Wicklow Arms, Delgany; Sweeney’s, Glasnevin; McCabe’s, Mount Merrion; the Gables, Foxrock; O’Donovan’s, Cork.
Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2009, Jasci, 13%, €13.95Lovely, soft ripe dark cherry fruits with a hint of spice and a rounded finish. Lovely wine, suitable to drink with most red and white meats.
Stockists: Nolan’s Foodfare Terenure; Bin No 9, Clonskeagh; the Wine Centre, Kilkenny; Thomas Deli, Foxrock; Wicklow Arms, Delgany; Sweeney’s, Glasnevin; McCabe’s, Mount Merrion; the Gables, Foxrock; O’Donovan’s, Cork