A few years ago, elderly onions, limp lettuce and sprouting spuds were often your only options if you stopped off at the local supermarket hoping to buy organic produce.

The range of organic food available is improving these days, although prices remain high. You can now buy items such as soups, pasta, meat, baby food, tea and coffee as well as fruit and veg.

But we are still poorly served in comparison to most European countries. In the UK, organic produce is touted as the new battleground in the war of the supermarkets. In June last year, the Iceland chain announced it had secured nearly 40 per cent of the world's organic produce in order to switch its entire range of own-label frozen vegetables and fresh produce to organic. The consumer pays the same price, with the company reducing margins on organic food, at a cost of £8 million sterling. Tesco announced last September that it would reduce the cost of all organic produce in the UK by 12 per cent, thereby writing off £5 million sterling. Sainsbury's is encouraging the entire island of Grenada to convert to organic production to supply its stores in Britain. Back home, consumers who shop in Iceland's nine shops in the Republic have to make do with a limited organic selection. And Tesco is not reducing margins in its 75 stores. The range of organic produce available through supermarkets, co-ops, greengrocers, health food shops, butchers, markets and box schemes is increasing, but it is still limited.

Prices are high. Organic produce is usually between 20 and 30 per cent dearer than conventional produce here. In some instances, it can be up to 150 per cent dearer.

The big problem is supply, or lack thereof. Neal Kelly, the buyer for Iceland in Ireland, says he can't bring in the organic frozen vegetables that are sold in the UK stores as they are in imperial measures rather than metric. With only nine stores here, he says suppliers won't produce in metric.

"There are no frozen food suppliers here who can supply us. We are unbelievably frustrated by the situation," he says.

The total market for organic food in Ireland is estimated at between £20 million and £25 million, less than 1 per cent of the total retail food market. Lack of local supply means that about 70 per cent of this is imported. A report by Bord Bia on prospects for organic food in Ireland says there is evidence that it is emerging from the margins into the mainstream. Four times the amount of land (more than 32,000 hectares) is now farmed organically than was the case five years ago. But there is no overnight solution to the land problem, as conversion from conventional to organic farming takes two to three years. The latter is also more labour-intensive and yields may be lower.

Over one-third of Irish consumers now buy organic at least once every three months. Supermarkets are the most popular outlets for organic food, although in more rural areas, local schemes, butchers and greengrocers account for one-third of sales.

So who are the people most likely to pay the additional premium? EU consumers of organic food tend to be wealthier, better-educated town-dwellers in the 35-65 age group. Relatively affluent mothers concerned about family well-being are typical customers.

Why buy organic food? Consumer concerns usually focus on health and safety, animal welfare and environmental aspects. Growing disposable income means more people can afford to choose organic. However, according to a recent report in Consumer Choice, the magazine of the Consumers' Association of Ireland, there is no evidence that organic food is any healthier or safer than conventional food.

"But since it is produced according to strict farming methods, there is a sense of assurance that it is of higher standard than conventional food," the report adds.

Paula Mee, nutrition adviser to Superquinn, says there is no significant research to suggest that organic produce tastes better or is healthier. But there is certainly a widespread perception that it is tastier. "I get a lot of customers who say the yoghurt is creamier or the carrots taste better," says Mee.

So if you can't taste, smell or see, or even test the difference, how do you know if food is organic? In Ireland, there are three groups who certify organic producers: Demeter Standards Ltd, the Irish Farmers' and Growers' Association and Organic Trust Ltd. Each of these uses symbols which indicate that food is organically produced, but the Bord Bia research reveals that only 6 per cent of consumers are familiar with any of these symbols.

THERE is an EU regulation to ensure that organic food producers adhere to a minimum standard. Unfortunately, this standard is lower than the current Irish standard, so when, some months ago, the Department of Agriculture indicated it wished to adopt the EU guidelines, the organic community objected strongly. Negotiations are ongoing.

Meanwhile, for consumers, there is some good news on the horizon. With the growing demand for organic products, bigger companies are becoming involved in production and costs are likely to fall. Mee says Superquinn customers can expect to see organic Heinz baked beans on sale in the next few weeks.

This week, Tesco, which reported a 50 per increase in demand for organic products last year, introduces its first Irish own-brand organic product - natural and strawberry yoghurt produced by Glenisk. A spokeswoman for Tesco says customers now want to buy the ingredients for full organic meals rather than just buying fresh produce.

This week will also see the introduction of Superquinn's organic brown bag. This will be stuffed full of seasonal organic produce and will cost between £5 and £10. It is to be introduced first in the branch in Blackrock, Co Dublin, and extended to other branches if successful.

Supervalu began selling organic fruit, vegetables and dairy produce last year. Organic mince and diced meat will be available by the end of this month and steak later in the year. Supervalu's parent group, the Musgrave Group, has entered into a sponsorship agreement with the non-profitmaking The Organic Centre in Rossinver, Co Leitrim.

So much for the staples - the fruit and veg, baby food, dairy products, meat, bread, pastas and processed meals - what about the alcohol? Myth has it that the lack of chemicals, herbicides and pesticides in organic booze means no hangover. Not so, according to Consumer Choice - it's dehydration that is largely responsible for that nasty next-day headache.