The violent Scandinavian invaders used to terrorise the island, but now their adventures are being celebrated in a festival, writes FIONOLA MEREDITH.
THE VIKINGS are coming. But there’s no need to run screaming for the hills. The Norse warriors aren’t arriving on a longship, roaring for blood and ready to burn and pillage. “I’m just off to pick them up from the airport,” says Conor O’Neill, organiser of the Annagassan Viking Festival, which takes place this weekend in the Co Louth village.
Overlooking the Cooley mountains on Dundalk Bay, Annagassan is claimed to be the first permanent Viking settlement in Ireland. Now in its third year, the festival will welcome “Vikings” from Denmark and the Isle of Man, as well as from Downpatrick in Co Down (reputed burial place of Viking king Magnus Barelegs) and from the Fingal Living History Society, to do what Vikings do best: beat the living daylights out of anyone who crosses them.
Standing at a safe distance, festival-goers can watch the Vikings in action as they wield their swords, spears and long-handled battle-axes. It’s sure to be noisy, sweaty and highly exciting, but hopefully not too bloody.
“We have 70 authentic Vikings coming over to recreate what their forefathers once did. They’ll take over the village for a whole weekend,” says O’Neill. “However, this time the Irish are going to put up a better fight.”
Although it looks like a very entertaining form of dressing-up, Viking re-enactors take their craft seriously. They pride themselves on historical accuracy and attention to detail, in their weapons, fighting techniques and battle dress – including chain mail, which by all accounts is terribly uncomfortable to wear while on horseback. And despite the stereotype, don’t expect to see any horns sticking out of a real Viking’s helmet: smooth and curved headwear is the way to avoid those dangerous glancing blows, not to mention their historical accuracy.
Safety is paramount in these re-enactments. The fighting is choreographed, and while those swords may look brutal, they have wide edges and rounded tips to ensure they don’t do some genuine Viking-style damage.
Aside from the re-enactments, there will also be the opportunity for festival-goers to set sail on Dundalk Bay on a longboat (brought by the Downpatrick Vikings), and to watch professional sand sculptors create two giant Viking warriors on the beach.
Annagassan will be effectively turned into a Viking settlement, with its own blacksmith, weaver and silversmith.
Authentic clothes, shoes, belts and finely worked jewellery will be on display, as well as Viking fare such as honey mead and, er, Danish pastries.
As part of the proceedings, there will be a dog show with a difference.
O’Neill has high hopes of finding Ireland’s largest and longest dogs. Originally, the field was only open to Great Danes and Irish wolfhounds (reflecting the Danish and Irish roots of the festival), but this year any tall, wide or otherwise chunky canine can take part.
On Sunday, there will be a boat race between members of the local fitness club and the villagers of Annagassan.
But the most bizarre element of the Viking festival has to be the closing ceremony on Sunday, where participants will create the sacking and burning of a monastery.
“Yes, the Vikings come and blow up the monastery and kill all the monks,” says O’Neill. Surely not a real one, with real monks? “No, we use pallets and paint to create a mock-up on the beach, next to the harbour. But it’s very convincing.”
The Downpatrick Vikings kick off the pillaging by firing flaming arrows into the windows, and after that the whole thing is rased to the ground.
“It’s educational,” says Conor O’Neill. “When the kids go back to school, they’ll definitely remember what the Vikings did when they came to Ireland.”
www.annagassanvikingfestival.com
