OPPONENTS regard it as "Frankenstein fodder" that is being foisted on an unsuspecting public.

Promoters insist it is the means to nutritive salvation. "It" is genetically modified food and soon the Irish consumer will be faced with a dazzling new dimension of choice when filling the supermarket trolley.

Scientific advances in the transfer of genetic material from one species to another have become routine. Nowhere is that more obvious than in global research concentrated on producing crops resistant to infection by bacteria and viruses and contamination by pesticides, particularly herbicides.

"Genetic improvement" will mean foods with a higher content of vitamins, minerals or protein, or lower in fat. It is a means to improving "keep ability" of fruit and vegetables, and comes with a promise of better quality at lower prices. Pears, apples and carrots will soon be genetically engineered not only to be nutritious but also to contain antibodies to counteract disease.

Irish supermarket shelves have not yet been invaded by food products containing genes that have been tinkered with, though the introduction of genetically modified (GM) soyabean and maize from the US has not been greeted with mouthwatering anticipation by European consumers. It is unclear as to what extent such products - or their derivatives - are on sale in the Republic, but soya, for example, is contained in many food and drink products.

Repeated surveys across Europe have shown that most people have reservations about consuming food produced from genetically modified organisms (GMOs) or derived from GMOs. Marketing, most especially labelling, needs to be more convincing and informative for a public made suspicious by BSE and E coli 0157.

GMO producers - invariably, global giants such as Monsanto and Ciba Geigy - seem to be blinded by amazing science and fail to get consumers on board. The European Commission fell into the same trap and initially allowed GM foods to be marketed without being labelled as such.

Given the Republic's reputation for wholesome food and marketing based on a green image, it was, perhaps, inevitable that traditional producers or environmental interests would go to the courts to oppose the introduction to the Irish food chain of its first GMO.

Genetic Concern, a combination of such groups, went to the High Court seeking to restrain Monsanto from planting GM beet on Teagasc owned land in Carlow. The beet is engineered with genes from a bacteria, a virus and a flower to render it immune to Monsanto's weedkiller, Roundup.

Such is the capability of GMO science and the extent of multinational interest in GM products, that a ban on GM food is unlikely in the EU context, even if green interests seek it. Two questions follow. Is GM food safe? Given the Green Party's call for a moratorium on GM crops here, would it be possible for the Republic to exclude GM food from the home market?

PROF David McConnell of Trinity College, a genetic engineer of 27 years standing, acknowledges obvious public concern. He does not think it's widespread but focused on the green issue. "I can identify with it. Unfortunately, people are concerned about a problem that does not exist."

Genetic engineering for more than 20 years has been rigorously monitored and, says Prof O'Connell, "there is not a single case of any damage" to nature or the environment. He attributes public anxiety to lack of knowledge and familiarity with the technology which is "elegant, refined, safe, specific and thoroughly regulated".

He points to pharmaceutical products made by genetic engineering, notably human insulin, many components of foods and drinks produced by such methods, and the use of genetically engineered rennin in cheesemaking which, he says, is more hygienic than that derived from bovine sources.

Genetic Concern rejects the view that Monsanto's trials "will pose no threat to human health or the environment", and claims that once seeds are planted, GMOs would not be retrievable from the Irish environment. GMOs are products of "a relatively new and untried science".

UCD food microbiologist Dr Mary Upton agrees that GMOs conjure up images of sixheaded monsters. "I would not be negative about them. I would be cautious."

That, however, should be against a background of strong positive controls, people being informed, having a choice, and labelling saying what's being offered. "There is also a need for sustained information of the unemotive variety, factual with risks and benefits," adds Dr Upton.

Several EU states have erred on the side of caution by restricting GM foods.

All GM food must now be adequately labelled. Up to this year, 10 GM products were licensed within the EU; 11 more will be adjudicated on this year. GM foods are here to stay, the Republic included.

That accepted, the best course for the consumer would seem to be pursuit of "informed choice". British supermarket giants and food producers have belatedly recognised the demand for clear details of food constituents, most especially differentiation between genetically modified and unaltered foods.

Their Irish equivalents will soon be following suit.