Pádraig O’Hora, ex-Mayo county footballer, has set himself the challenge of climbing Mount Everest at the age of 33. He will be writing a weekly column for The Irish Times about the ongoing expedition.
Monday, March 30th
Leaving the west coast of Ireland for the Khumbu valley in Nepal is an exciting prospect. What once felt like aeons away is now imminent. I recall saying after a call with Jason Black, when we locked this in, that three years was a long time to prepare and wait for anything. But now, with only hours until the bags and myself head for the big smoke, I wonder was it enough time.
The last few weeks have been a blur of preparation – as a man who can only work effectively off a list, I’ve found it a bit overwhelming trying to knock jobs off one by one. The preparation for an Everest attempt is one thing, but it’s the prep work that goes into those left at home that adds the spice. Three children have to be cared for, schoolbuses, childcare, training sessions, finances etc ...
The other child, my Siberian husky Nikko, and the rabbit (Keith Higgins, aka Zippy) have to find new homes with my parents and close friends respectively. I’m lucky to have these people in my life and so are the kids to have parents, grandparents, friends and neighbours who support us all. I want to thank all of them as I sit here writing this, looking over the Khumbu valley.
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In Dublin, I said goodbye to two of the most important women in my life – my partner, Niamh, and my Mam – and it was off to get on flight number one from Dublin to Abu Dhabi.
Adam and I connected before boarding and there was real feel of excitement that superseded the tiredness of a 6am flight. From Abu Dhabi it was on to Kathmandu – both flights went off without a hitch. Okay, there were a couple of brief missile warnings in Abu Dhabi airport, but all they did was remind us that we how lucky we are. We’re off on the adventure of a lifetime while the world around us is still on fire.
Tuesday, March 31st
I essentially slept through all of both flights and arrived in Kathmandu airport relatively refreshed. It’s a superpower that will become even more useful as we move further into less-comfortable situations.
We have two days in Kathmandu to wait for others arriving as there are delays with flights for those who went through Qatar and Dubai. Jason, Adam Sweeney, Eanna McGowan and I are all bound for the Everest summit and will be joined for the walk in by two going for Ama Dablam, two for Island Peak and a family who are going to Everest base camp.
We used the days to look around and head to Swayambhunath Stupa (the monkey temple). This place is so different from what we are used to in Mayo. Walking around, I wonder is one more likely to be taken out down here on the streets of Kathmandu by a motorbike than on Everest itself.
Wednesday, April 1st
On our final morning here I woke early and couldn’t return to sleep so spent the hours of 4am to 6am in meditation and breathing practice before breakfast.
I find myself in and out of both positive and negative thoughts about this expedition and the assault on Everest’s summit. Especially in the times when I am alone. This would prove to be a common trend for the rest of the week.
Should I force these thoughts out of the mind and only focus on the ones of success? Or should I lean in to them and accept them for what they are? Simply thoughts, that’s all. We had a briefing with the whole team, final gear checks and got to bed early to prepare for our flight to Lukla in the morning.
Thursday, April 2nd
The flight is something that will live long in my memory. An incredible experience for all involved. The views and sunrise felt like some sort of natural magic. The air pockets made many in the plane cling tighter to the seat belt or anything available to them.
I loved it. What a way to start an adventure. The landing strip and surrounding mountains looked a bit like Jurassic Park.
Our first walk was to Phakding, a four-hour hike. Nice and easy to start us off. I spoke little and wanted my own space. Already, I’m finding my social battery emptying at times. I like the chats, laughs during the meals and some other times but I really do feel the need for personal time alone. I’m sure it will be the same for the whole expedition.
It’s only early days but the connection to back home is something I am hugely grateful for. These phones cause us so much pain and have a lot to answer for in relation to mental health, particularly in young people. But I am extremely grateful for the capacity to call and message loved ones at home all the way to base camp.
We walked up the lower valley following the direction of the Dudh Koshi river and, once we arrived in Phakding, Eanna, Conan Hewitt and I took the opportunity to take a wee swim in it. The Sherpas were laughing at us – I don’t think they realise how well seasoned we Irish are to cold.
Friday, April 3rd
Another good night’s sleep. Once again, thoughts of the summit push their way into my mind. I have made a promise to myself to focus on the now, remain present and not ruminate on future or past. Easier said than done at times, although I am finding that years of mindfulness is helping.
Our next hike was 11km with an altitude gain of 800m – something similar to Carrauntoohil. It was really enjoyable, full of natural beauty and incredible bridges. Best of all, we crossed the Hillary Bridge that connects the lower and upper Khumbu and is the access point to Namche Bazaar, our resting place for an extra day. The altitude has not hit me and I expect this to remain the same at least until base camp, if not higher.
What strikes me most up here is the Buddhist way of life and art that is all around us. It’s like going on holiday and not having a little of the local language – I feel uneducated and somewhat rude, as if I’m intruding somehow.
I learn a lot from conversations along the way with the Sherpa. They are more than happy to fill in my gaps and educate me about local practices and Buddhist teachings. Our Sherpa team consists of Raj, Pemba, Milan Nema and Kaji. I am enjoying their company greatly.
Sunday, April 5th
The weather turned as the clouds came in and the rain along with them. It certainly suited for a rest day. We spent the morning participating in a sound bath healing session and a brief education on the most famous, six-syllable Buddhism mantra (“om mani padme hung”).
I have always found Buddhism incredibly interesting and have read bits on this over the years, but nothing I’ve read really compares to experiencing some of the practices and teachings here. We rested, had a questionable sauna with the lads and picked up some small bits for the bag before we push on to the upper Khumbu.
A brief trip to the Irish pub to say hello and as much cake as I could eat in the bakery saw me off to bed. A slightly different Easter Sunday than usual. The mind does drip back to chocolate eggs, Yorkshire pudding and gravy.
We keep going. Over the next week, we will travel to a monastery in the mountains and get moving on to Everest base camp.
Much love, everyone.
Pádraig O’Hora is climbing Everest to support the Mayo Mental Health Association
