Fog Mountain Chardonnay, California, 1997 (Roches Stores, Verlings Clontarf, Foleys Cabinteely, Duffy group, Spar Milltown, O'Donovans Cork, Vineyard Galway and other independent off-licences, usually £6.99).
Like anointing your salmon with a buttery beurre blanc, this nicely balanced Californian offers extremely good value.
Clos de Nouys Vouvray 1996 (Raheny Wine Cellar and some other SuperValus/Centras, Kellys and Verlings Clontarf, Lord Mayors Swords, Jus de Vine Portmarnock, Vintry Rathgar, Cooneys Harold's Cross, Martha's Vineyard Rathfarnham, Mill Maynooth, O'Donovans Cork and other outlets, usually £6.99).
Gravlax was made for this - or vice versa. A nice little touch of honey marries with the sweetness of the fish - lifted by a rush of lemony acidity. A great year which will develop sensationally, so the price is a steal.
Domaine Picquemal Muscat Sec, Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalanes, 1997 (Wines Direct, £7.35 if you buy a case which may be mixed).
A new discovery that tastes terrific alongside Salmon with Juniper Vinaigrette - distinctively grapey and slightly spicy but not in the least blousy. It's not half bad with plain poached salmon either - especially if you're ready to give Chardonnay a break.
Louis Latour Chardonnay, Bourgogne, 1996 (selected Superquinns, McCabes Merrion, Vintry Rathgar, Deveneys Dundrum, Higgins Clonskeagh, Duffys Terenure, Fine Wines Limerick, Vineyard Galway and other outlets, usually £7.49-£7.99).
A star with poached salmon, and versatile enough to stand up well to other recipes, too. See Bottle of the Week.
Wakefield Promised Land Riesling, Clare Valley, 1997 (selected Superquinns, Pettitts, Roches Stores and many independent off-licences countrywide, usually £7.99).
The reminders of freshly squeezed limes in this attractively refreshing Oz Riesling make it a winner with Salmon Ceviche. It would suit other Pacific Rim-type treatments, too. . .