Lustau Solera Reserva Manza- nilla Papirusa (Verlings, Red- monds, Mitchells, Molloys, some SuperValus, Dublin Wine Co, Greenacres Wexford, O'Donovans Cork, Limerick Fine Wines and other outlets, half bottle £5.99- £6.99; also Direct Wine Shipments Belfast). This is so light, delicate and elegant that it's difficult to describe. You just have to drink it. See Bottle of the Week. Osborne Manzanilla (Superquinn, Grogans, some other outlets, full bottle usually £6-£7). Yeasty, earthy and certainly salty; maybe a little less refined than the others but unbeatable value. Domecq La Ina Very Pale Dry Fino (Superquinn, McCabes, Carvills and some other outlets, full bottle usually £8.99). Spain's favourite fino by far, and it's easy to see why. Very crisp and light with a slightly toasty finish.
Gonzalez Byass Tio Pepe Fino Muy Seco (widely available, full bottle usually £9.99; half bottle some Tesco/Quinnsworths, Superquinns, Roches, Foleys and others, usually £5.99). The bottle that's usually produced when you ask for a dry sherry here - and if it hasn't been sitting half opened for weeks (as tends to be the case), it's smooth, elegant and totally refreshing. Real Tesoro Fino Ideal (Wine Vault Waterford, also McCabes, Vintage, Verlings, Spar Castleknock, full bottle usually about £10.95). A fino superstar (and former Bottle of the Week) - wonderfully complex, smoky flavours that linger on and on. It deserves much wider recognition. (Interested stockists contact David Dennison, tel 051 853777).
Lustau Almacenista Manzanilla Amontillada (outlets as for Lustau Manzanilla Papirusa above, half bottle usually about £10.99). The one that cured my cold and sent me spinning back to sherry. A wonderful surprise - nutty, mellow, enticing . . . yet dry. Valdespino Palo Cortado del Carrascal (Searsons, Grapes of Mirth, Rathmines, usually £13.95). "I could drink this sitting on the sofa after a meal, any time," said Julian Jeffs. Me, too. Great toasty aromas and concentrated, rich flavours, again with a firm, resolutely dry finish. Waiting to be adopted by more than a tight little bunch of connoisseurs.