BRITAIN: Irish designer Paul Costelloe kicked off London Fashion Week for the first time with his 50s-inspired spring/summer 2004 collection, the first of some 50 runway shows which continue this week until Thursday when the British Style Awards will be announced. From Deirdre McQuillan, Fashion Editor, in London
In the twice-yearly schedule of international catwalk shows, which began in New York last week, London will be followed by Milan and Paris.
Though the UK regularly loses some of its big stars to New York and Paris, considered more important economic and style capitals - this season there were two such defections - successful stalwarts such as Paul Smith, Betty Jackson, Nicole Farhi and Clements Ribeiro continue to show at home. In London this week they will be joined by young newcomers like Jonathan Saunders, widely tipped as the latest rising star whose MA collection was shown last year. Apart from new talent, London always has its share of excitement and one of the highlights of the week promises to be Katherine Hamnett's show on Wednesday. The former supermodel Naomi Campbell is to take part to promote AIDS awareness, wearing a provocative T-shirt with "Use A Condom" in diamante emblazoned on its front.
In an industry better known for mixing sex with fashion rather than politics, this is Hamnett's way of making strong statements with her clothes. In February models wore "Stop War" and "Blair out" slogans. There were also reports this week that Hollywood stars were being offered up to £60,000 in "appearance fees" to endorse designers by taking front-line seats at high-profile shows, mostly in Milan.
For Costelloe, who has been showing in London for over 18 years, "it's nothing new for designers with millions to spend on their shows and more than fashion to promote". For him, London "is not the most market-oriented capital in the world and is more about hype than anything else, but it can be effective. It keeps the Costelloe name out there and it's nice to be still recognised as an Irish designer."
John Rocha shows his collection tomorrow.