Designer displays liking for Vikings

MODA Ireland, now running until Tuesday at the RDS, Dublin, is not only the oldest fashion trade fair in Ireland and the United…

MODA Ireland, now running until Tuesday at the RDS, Dublin, is not only the oldest fashion trade fair in Ireland and the United Kingdom, it is also one of the most innovative.

The immediate impression of ordinary and worthy clothes gives way gradually to the fact that things are a lot more exciting, even sometimes extraordinary.

One of the oddest designers is Catherine McAlister, a recent graduate of the University of Ulster, and at Moda for the first time. McAlister is into tame Vikings: fake fur, the colour of dried ox blood, scraps of leather and coarse woven tweed, indecent shapes and sheep's skull are part of a collection.

If McAlister is the most courageous there are 24 young Irish designers, from both sides of the Border, under the title, `The Group', who are acceptably innovative, without being daft.

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With the assistance of the Irish Fashion Industry Federation, they are given six months to establish themselves, but in fact many are already well on their way to doing that anyway. Deborah Veale, Edel McBride and Maggie Knits, for instance, are well known, and their clothes are easily available.

One up and coming name to note is Grainne Walsh, whose smart tailoring, in fine wool with Art Deco touches, is a logical step from her current collection (see Powerscourt Centre's Design Centre.) which is in monochrome linens: very easy and smart at the same time. And Margaret Ryan explores brilliantly a 1920s theme in the finest lacy viscose knits.

There is a large Danish presence, which includes Ron Indigo, a quality range of casuals for men and women; great shapes and comfort here and still managing to look marvellous. This is the first time here for this label.

Michel Ambers, in a caramel and black two tone group, comes across as spot on smart, and the fake fur jackets and black or brown leather trousers and jackets are investment buys at their best.

Twenty three years running, with about half the exhibitors from abroad, the three day Moda Fair, which was officially opened yesterday by Ms Eithne Fitzgerald, Minister of State for Labour Affairs, gives fashion buyers a chance to place their orders for next autumn in comparative comfort.