The first of the major Pret a Porter fashion shows for spring/summer 2004 opened yesterday in Paris at the Carrousel du Louvre in a city that now officially styles itself as "La Capital de la Creation".
Nearly 80 catwalk presentations, exhibitions and other related events taking place in the "Cite de la Mode et du Design" bring to an end the hectic twice-yearly schedule that begins in New York and is followed by London and Milan.
Vivienne Westwood, who will be the subject of the largest exhibition ever dedicated to a British designer at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London next spring, was the first familiar name to kick off the week and the 62-year-old designer did it in her characteristic idiosyncratic manner.
Her freewheeling collection with clothes that were tucked, gathered, swagged and draped was notable for the wild and bold shapes that fashion students try hard to copy. Details were exaggerated like flap-side pockets, wing- shouldered jackets, nappy pants and draped derrieres; clothes often looked as if they had fallen in studied disarray on the models.
The combination of yellow socks, pink stilettos, kilts and tight toreador jackets had that touch of English eccentricity that amuses foreigners and according to Paul McCourt, her Irish area manager, Westwood has an enthusiastic following in Italy where she has just opened a flagship store in Milan along with other British invaders, Paul Smith, Alexander McQueen and Burberry.
If Paris is where important British designers hold court, the current prince regent is John Galliano who has propelled the profits of Dior into very pleasing reaches for owner Mr Bernard Arnault of LVMH. Attended by some 1,300 press and buyers, Galliano's collection for Dior was held in a massive white tent in the autumnal splendour of the Tuileries gardens.
Models strode out in square- shouldered, tight grey satin suits that thrust up bosoms and stretched tight over swaggering backsides.
With black berets cocked to one side on arresting poodle hairdos, gold eye shadow and black lips, the models looked like a mixture of l8th century courtesans and '40s movie stars.
Galliano's new take on opulent boudoir regalia showed us corset dresses with metal suspender trims, furs like powder puffs, tattoo printed chiffon T-shirts and tights and lots of glittering bracelets.
Daunting combinations of lime green fur and gold lame bikinis will hardly be everyday beachwear next summer but the show drew roars of applause from the audience and Galliano strode down the runway alone, wearing a silver satin suit, enormous winkle pickers and a wide smile.
It was left to the French to bring some manners to all this extravagance. Marithe and Francois Girbaud are a successful team (with a following in Ireland) that know how to tame and translate the energy of the street into clothes that reflect the modern woman's spirit. A typical look was a neat fitted or flared jacket worn casually over three-quarter- length trousers injected with some playful detail or twist. Pleated minis were teamed with cut-off tights, any suits were slouchy and decorated with brooches.
Dresses had a chic bohemian touch with full skirts and asymmetric hems.
No high heels here for the winsome waifs but curvedplatforms or tough, Turkish-toed cowboy boots.