I remember seizing on Dietrich Riesling, Alsace, 1998 (stockists above, £6.99-£7.49) with delight after a surfeit of Christmas heavyweights. Now it's in season - a wine laced with green-apple crispness that ends up just on the right side of tart. It may be less rich than Alsace's most famous Rieslings, but that's no harm if your tongue is hanging out for a light, summery thirst-quencher. And look again at that price.