Four Spanish whites to try as production moves away from reds

Some very good whites are now being made in traditionally red Spanish regions, even in the home of sherry

Four of a kind: John Wilson runs the rule over these interesting wines
Four of a kind: John Wilson runs the rule over these interesting wines

Many wine regions are increasing their production of white wine as consumer preferences shift away from red to white. Spain is no exception. As well as in established areas such as Rías Baixas and Rueda, there are very good white wines made in the rest of Galicia and Catalunya, joined more recently by Valencia and the southeast, and even Jerez – sherry country.

I have written about white Rioja before; there are some interesting wines. I came across some more really good white wines at recent tastings. Viura, the primary local white variety, was once derided as inferior. But in the right hands, it is producing some thrilling wines. Most are aged in oak, usually old oak, to add interest and texture and have a crisp mineral acidity. Some producers, such as Marqués de Murrieta and López de Heredia, are ageing their white wines for extended periods in barrel and bottle, resulting in less aromatic, textured wines.

Other good white producers worth seeking out include Artuke, Muga, CVNE Monopole, Allende, Lopez de Haro, Valserrano, and Valencisco. Aldi did have a white Rioja recently, but I understand that this has sold out in most stores by now. I feature its albariño today instead.

Specially Selected Rías Baixas 2024 Baron Amarillo

13.5%, €10.99
Specially Selected Rías Baixas 2024 Baron Amarillo
Specially Selected Rías Baixas 2024 Baron Amarillo

Fresh, racy apple and pear fruits with a dry finish. This would be perfect with most shellfish, including oysters.

From Aldi

Bideona Viura de Cabezadas 2024, Rioja

12%, €20
Bideona Viura de Cabezadas 2024, Rioja
Bideona Viura de Cabezadas 2024, Rioja

Delicious, refreshing white wine with lemon zest, nectarines and floral aromas and a vibrant textured palate with a salty mineral element, and ripe stone fruits.

From Blackrock Cellar, Co Dublin; WineOnline; Lilith, Dublin 7; MisterVini, Mullingar, Co Westmeath

Alegre Valgañón Blanco 2024, Rioja

13%, €28
Alegre Valgañón Blanco 2024, Rioja
Alegre Valgañón Blanco 2024, Rioja

Fascinating and complex, with textured, waxy, yellow fruits, nuts, and dried herbs ending with a fine mineral finish. Try it with grilled fish or chicken dishes.

From Blackrock Cellar; Baggot Street Wines, Dublin 4; Redmonds, Dublin 6; Mortons of Galway

Olivier Rivière Le Blanc Rioja 2023

13.5%, €35
Olivier Rivière Le Blanc Rioja 2023
Olivier Rivière Le Blanc Rioja 2023

Ripe peaches, lime zest and grilled nuts with a lip-smacking dry finish.

From Green Man Wines, Dublin 6W; 64 Wine, Glasthule, Co Dublin; Baggot Street Wines

  • Join The Irish Times on WhatsApp and stay up to date

  • Get the Food & Drink Club newsletter for the tastiest recipes, reviews and offers